What we do
Pattern Making & Grading
Digital patterns and grading to your size chart — US, UK, EU, AU or fully custom.
The pattern is the blueprint of your garment. Our pattern makers work digitally from your tech pack, reference sample or measurements, and build the fit you specify — boxy, oversized, slim or graded exactly to your chart.
Grading across every size
We grade to standard US, UK, EU and AU size charts, or to your own measurements. Grading rules are reviewed with you at sample stage so the fit holds from XS to XXL, not just in the sample size.
Markers that save fabric
Cutting markers are laid digitally for fabric efficiency. Better markers mean less waste — a cost saving we pass on in the bulk price.
Build the base pattern around the intended fit
Pattern making converts a silhouette into geometry that can be cut, sewn and measured repeatedly. The work begins with the body, ease and balance—not with copying a generic small, medium or large.
Body measurements are not garment measurements
A body chart describes the customer; a garment specification adds wearing ease, design volume and construction allowances. The difference creates the fit. We keep those two datasets separate so an oversized chest, dropped shoulder or high-rise waist remains a deliberate design choice rather than an unexplained change to the body standard.
Choose a stable base size
The sample size should sit near the centre of the intended range and represent the target customer well. Key lengths, girths and balance points are established there first. Once the base sample is approved, its pattern becomes the controlled starting point for grading; grading an unresolved fit simply repeats the problem across every size.
Account for fabric behaviour early
Stretch, recovery, drape, thickness and shrinkage change the pattern. A rib top may use negative ease, a tailored woven jacket needs structural ease, and a washed jersey style may need shrinkage allowance. We pattern against the intended production material wherever possible so the sample is evaluating the product you will actually order.
What a production-ready tech pack needs
A pattern can be started from a reference garment, sketch or measurement sheet, but clarity at the beginning shortens the sampling loop. The best brief identifies what is fixed and what the pattern maker should propose.
Points of measure and method
Each measurement needs a named point, a diagram or unambiguous written method, and an allowable tolerance. “Body length” can mean high-point shoulder, centre back or another reference. We resolve those definitions before comparing a sample with the specification so buyer and factory are measuring the same line in the same state.
Construction controls shape
Seam type, rib tension, elastic length, lining, fusing, shoulder reinforcement and pocket construction can all change finished dimensions. These details belong in the technical package beside the measurement chart. When a style combines several materials, the pattern also records which edge stretches, eases or must remain stable during assembly.
Reference samples need written priorities
A reference garment can communicate proportion quickly, but it rarely matches every requirement. Tell us whether to preserve its chest, shoulder, length, neckline or overall attitude and identify the details you want changed. We measure the reference, compare it with your chart and document the proposed pattern rather than assuming the entire sample should be duplicated.
Fit review and pattern correction
A fit sample is a technical prototype. It should be reviewed on the intended body or form, in the intended fabric, with comments tied to observable balance and measurements.
Check balance before styling details
We review shoulder position, neckline, armhole, side seam, rise, crotch, inseam and hem balance before refining smaller details. Drag lines, twisting and uneven hems often point to a balance issue rather than a simple width correction. Solving the cause protects both fit and production efficiency.
Write comments as actions
Useful fit comments state the location, amount and direction of change: for example, “raise front neckline 8 mm at centre, blending to zero at shoulder.” Photos should show the garment square to camera and mark the issue. Consolidated comments prevent conflicting instructions and give the revised sample a clear acceptance test.
Control versions and tolerances
Every revision updates the pattern, measurement chart and comment record together. Approved values become the production specification, while tolerances define acceptable variation rather than an alternative target. We retain the approved version so a repeat order starts from controlled data instead of a pattern reconstructed from a finished garment.
Grade sizes without losing the silhouette
Grading is not uniform enlargement. Different body points grow at different rates, and design features must move in ways that keep the visual proportion and function of the base size.
Set rules by product and market
Grade increments reflect the customer, size range, fit intent and garment type. A unisex streetwear tee, fitted dress and men’s tailored jacket should not share one generic rule. We can work to established US, UK, EU or AU conventions, but a brand’s own customer data and returns history are more valuable when available.
Review key sizes, not only the nest
Digital nests expose obvious jumps and collisions, but they do not replace physical judgement. For wide ranges or close-fitting styles, we recommend reviewing at least one larger or smaller size in addition to the base. This catches neckline, pocket, rise and sleeve proportions that may be mathematically consistent but visually wrong.
Keep details usable at every size
Pocket openings, drawcords, labels, artwork and trims may need controlled placement or fixed dimensions rather than full proportional grading. Seam allowances and notches must remain compatible with the production method. The final graded set is checked for matching seam lengths and pattern-piece relationships before markers are prepared.
Markers connect fit approval to bulk cost
Once patterns and size ratios are approved, marker planning turns them into a cutting plan. Efficient markers reduce waste, but they must respect grain, nap, print direction, shade and quality constraints.
Plan with the real size ratio
A marker based on an even size split can misstate consumption when the purchase order is concentrated in larger sizes. We calculate against the order ratio and usable fabric width. This gives the quote a stronger consumption basis and reduces the risk of a fabric shortfall after cutting begins.
Protect directional and visual materials
Corduroy, brushed surfaces, one-way prints, stripes, checks and engineered placements restrict how pieces can rotate or nest. Matching requirements are agreed before costing because they can add material. The marker follows those rules so an efficient layout does not create upside-down nap or mismatched garment panels.
Release only approved data
Production markers are generated from the approved pattern revision and fabric width. If fit, shrinkage or construction changes later, affected patterns and markers are updated together. That release discipline keeps the cutting room, sample room and buyer aligned on one version of the garment.
Frequently asked questions
Can you make a pattern without a tech pack?
Yes. We can start from a reference garment, sketch and key measurements, then document the proposed construction and specification. A clearer brief still reduces revisions and protects your intended fit.
Do you use standard US, UK, EU and AU sizes?
We can use standard market conventions or your custom chart. Because size labels are not universal, we confirm the actual body and garment measurements rather than relying on the letters alone.
When should grading begin?
After the base-size fit, fabric and construction are approved. Grading before fit approval multiplies unresolved issues across the size range and creates avoidable rework.
Can you grade an existing pattern?
Yes. Send the digital file or physical pattern with the base-size measurement chart and required range. We audit key seams, notches and measurements before applying the agreed grade rules.
Standards & buyer references
Read the primary sources
Independent references for checking terminology, test methods and market requirements while preparing your order.
External resources are provided for general reference. Your brand or importer should confirm the standards and legal requirements that apply to each product and sales market.
Continue planning
Connect the next production decision
What a factory needs in a tech pack
Build an actionable specification for measurements, construction and materials.
Explore →Next stepSample development
Test the base pattern and construction before grading is released to bulk.
Explore →Material inputFabric sourcing
Select the production fabric that determines ease, shrinkage and drape.
Explore →Product lineT-shirts
Explore custom jersey fits from regular to boxy and oversized.
Explore →Start your production run
Send your tech pack — get a quote in 5 hours
Share your design, target quantity and delivery country. We reply with fabric options, a sample plan and a bulk estimate.